| January 19, 2005 |
Guest Presenter: Carolyn Roof, Master Gardener, Landscape
Consultant, Garden Columnist This synopsis was
provided by Cindy Glisson, teacher: Today
the Master Gardeners presented a lecture on forcing bulbs. Carolyn Roof,
a garden writer for the Paducah Sun was the guest speaker. Students
learned the difference between true bulbs, corms, tubers, and rhizomes.
The importance of water was emphasized as well. Students observed bulbs
that were drought stricken, waterlogged, and bulbs that were perfect for
planting. Each group of 4-5 students planted Narcissi "Ziva",
Narcissi "Thalia", "Mount Hood" Daffodils, "Hollandica" Iris, or
"Apricot Beauty" Tulips. Bulbs were placed atop clear plastic cups
filled with pea gravel. Gravel was placed around the bulb tops to keep
the bulbs in place. Cups were labeled with their scientific plant names
and were filled with gravel to the basal plate. Students ended
class by placing plant specimens on trays next to a Southwest window.
Bloom time on the bulbs will vary, starting at approximately 3 weeks.
This journal entry was
provided by the Water team: We started our project today
by collecting different varieties of bulbs. Pea gravel was placed in
tall, clear plastic cups. Mrs. Miller and Ms. Ullerich had to clean the
pea gravel to prevent muddy water from forming. This is because you
won't be able to see the roots when the bulbs start to grow. We
are part of the water team which is planting Narcissi "Ziva". The bulbs
are white, pure white. The light group planted true bulbs, daffodils
that will be white on the outside and yellow in the centers. The oxygen
group planted Narcissi "Thalia" that is also white like "Ziva". The soil
team planted multicolored irises that will be purple and white. The soil
team had a different preparation where they first had to place rock on
the bottom of a pot one inch deep and then they had to add a layer of
soil. Finally, they had to plant the bulbs in covered soil. The
last team, the temperature team, planted "Apricot Beauty" tulips that
are a pinkish color. The funny or cool thing about the tulips is that
back in World War II, the Dutch ate tulip bulbs to survive. All
groups other than the soil group had to place pea gravel in clear
plastic cups before planting the bulbs. Once the bulbs were placed on
top of the pea gravel, another layer of gravel was placed in the cup to
keep the bulbs in place. Then water was poured in the cup, but not too
much, because the bulbs will become mushy and rot. The next day we
watched a clip of P. Allen Smith forcing bulbs. We also observed a bad
thing had happened to our begonias. The propagated begonias started to
mold. Each group had to cut off the molded sections of the leaves and
replace any toothpicks that were covered in the fungus. To hopefully
help eliminate the mold, we also opened the terrariums so that the
begonias and soil would stop absorbing so much moisture therefore
causing the plants to die. |
| January 19, 2005 |
 Mrs.
Roof prepares a container for a bulb.As the
experiment progressed, the boys quickly learned the importance of the
right amount of water. The goal is "just enough" water. Too
much and mold develops. Too little and roots won't form.
|
| January 27, 2005 |
Mold was detected on the "Thalia" and "Ziva" narcissus bulbs earlier
in the week. The infected bulbs were swabbed with alcohol.
Today, the infected bulbs were examined again and discarded. We
talked about adding a bit of calcium nitrate to the diseased bulbs, and
even tested the pH of the calcium nitrate. Ultimately the moldy
bulbs were tossed because of a foul odor.
 We discussed various factors that may have caused the mold to form.
A drop of alcohol was placed in each cup as it was prepared to stave off
the growth of bacteria but that clearly did not work. We
considered that the bulbs may have had mold growing when we began the
experiment. We thought we looked for mold but may have missed it.
We considered variations in the room temperature overnight and over the
weekend. A fan will be added to the room to increase air
circulation. We evaluated the gravel we were using. Water
was run through the gravel until it ran clear but there may have been
contaminants that enabled the mold to form. The foliage on some of
the bulbs is already 4" tall. Foliage is visible on five of the
six iris bulbs planted in soil.
Mrs. Roof brought white marble and prepared new bulbs in that media.
The white marble is larger than the gravel and it will make the roots
more visible. |
| February 1, 2005 |
Two of the Ziva paperwhites came into bloom over the weekend.
The boys are all smiles when the bulbs open and fragrance
fills the air.
|
Forcing Paperwhites in Water by Carolyn Roof
Supplies
Container
glass or clear bowl
Rocks
place a layer of washed rock in bottom of glass
Paperwhite bulb
place in glass, “pointy” side up, at least ¾ of bulb
should be
below glass rim
Water
add just enough so water touches the “basal plate” – that’s
the bottom of the bulb – it
looks like a scab with long strings
protruding from it (the
“strings” are last season’s roots).
Place in a
sunny, cool, south facing window (normally plants should not touch glass, but
this does not hurt these early spring flowers).
4-8 weeks
to bloom (Bulbs started earlier in the season require longer time to bloom.
Bulbs started closer to the normal bloom date require less time to force. into
bloom).
Galilee
is the best variety.
Other
bulbs in soil
Recommend
soaking bulb in rooting compound for 24 hours
Select a
container that is 8” wide and 6” deep
Fill with
good potting soil to within 2” of top
Sink pot
in ground
Bring pot
indoors when:
It’s been in ground for 10 weeks
Foliage is 3” above ground
And, a bud is visible
Place in
subdued light for 2 weeks at 55 degrees
Place in
full sun for 2 weeks at 60 degrees
Varieties
Trumpet – King Alfred, Unsurpassable
Large Cup – Carlton
Cyclamineus – Peeping Tom, February Gold
Tazetta – Geranium
Cultivation
Remember country of origin and duplicate
Soil loose,
well-drained, not rich in loam, dig 12’18”, may add sand, peat, gypsum
Sun
in Spring, may plant under deciduous trees but not
thick,
shallow-rooted ones or
evergreens; provide at least ½ day sun
Fertilizer
Fertilizer – apply bulb fertilizer according to directions, or 3-10-6
(rate of 3 lb per 100 square feet, apply in fall and at
planting;
spring emergence and when in bloom)
Plant
date
mid-to-late November
Depth
1 ½ x bulb height
Spacing
6-9” apart depending on size
Naturalizing
scatter, dig, add sand and bone meal, recover with sod
Disease/Pest
relatively free
Virus – stripes – rogue out
Nematode – swollen leaves and twisted – rogue out
Fly – single leaf, small bulb – fill hole when foliage dies
Purchase
Area Master Gardener Association
